Kai merges Fijian silhouettes with resortwear edge

Fashion designer Makaira Lee launched her new label By Kai with a solo show at New Zealand Fashion Week, unveiling 29 looks from her debut collection. The creative director and stylist put the entire presentation together in just over six weeks with the help of her family, describing the effort as a “huge undertaking.” By Kai fuses traditional Fijian silhouettes with a resortwear edge, emphasizing grounded sensuality and a tomboy aesthetic.

A Personal Launch in Aotearoa

Lee’s collection, titled When are you coming home?, draws deeply from her Fijian heritage and her recent wedding to husband Kane. Textured fabrics like raffia, shell, and wood reflect the environment and culture of her upbringing, while silhouettes are inspired by the draping of saris and the traditional men’s sulu. Natural fabrics feature throughout, with weighty, utilitarian materials like calico and drill offset by the softness and breathability of cotton and silk.

The show opened with natural cotton-canvas looks that nodded to Lee’s bridal party, finished with traditional Fijian accessories, including the salusalu Kane wore on their wedding day. From there, the collection moved into modern resort and effortless occasion-wear, designed for the moments surrounding a destination wedding, before closing with a reimagining of Lee’s wedding two-piece. Natural cotton-canvas looks opened the show, nodding to the bridal party and finished with traditional Fijian accessories, including the salusalu Kane wore on their wedding day.

Intense Production with Family

Lee worked alongside her mother, Jeannie, a seamstress, to bring the debut collection to life, sourcing fabric and designing everything locally in Aotearoa. The production process was intense, with Jeannie working full-time during the day and sewing into the early hours of the morning. A few weeks in, the team realized they would not finish in time alone, so they brought two additional women into production.

Every element of the presentation was designed and made in New Zealand, including a series of custom bags created in collaboration with local designer Georgia Jay. The bags incorporated woven leather, wooden beads, and shells that felt at home within the world of By Kai. Lee describes her aesthetic as “quietly sensual, effortlessly cool and grounded by a tomboy edge,” with a preference for fabrics that possess weight and integrity.

Building a Community on the Runway

The casting for the New Zealand Fashion Week show was led by Apela Bell and included eight models who walked exclusively for the brand. Evie Ashby and Annie Rose flew in specifically for the event, with the cast built around a history of trust and community between Lee and Bell rather than just around the clothes themselves. Lee considers the casting to be a source of immense pride, noting that many of the models have shared significant moments in both of their careers.

For Lee, the label represents more than just clothing; it is an introduction to who she is and where she comes from. The first drop is expected to launch in November, featuring a selection of runway favorites including fringed camisoles, bikini tops, sheer dresses, and two-piece cargo sets. The designer hopes the clothes become part of people’s stories—pieces they live in, dance in, and return to for years to come.